A Solution to Low Water Pressure

If you live in London you’ve probable had a bit of a lacklustre performance when it comes to water pressure. The bath takes an age and a half to fill. The shower just isn’t satisfying and you seem to be spending too long getting the shampoo out of your hair. When you turn on the shower you either get burnt or frozen.

More often than not, poor pressure is especially noticed when you have a combi at home. A combination boiler produces both heating and hot water. While the heating works on pressure, the hot water works on flow rate.

You can have good water pressure but low flow rate. This could be because of old lead pipework from the street or just bad flow rate in your area. Often you can install a new water mains. They are not necessarily expensive and can cost between £600 and £1000 although obviously these costs may not be correct for your house as it will depend on what extra works you will need done.

A lower cost alternative is to install a Mains pump. New types of mains pumps have come onto the market in the past year or 2. In the past without these units you would have needed a special permit and equipment to pump mains water into your house.

Today with the likes of the Salamander HomeBoost and the Grundfos Scala2 you can spend just £200 to £400 and that will get you a good boost to you water supply.

By UK law the booster pumps can only provide 12l of water/min and boost the water pressure to 1.5 bar. The pumps are quite compact and although slightly bulky if fitted on pipework which is not boxed in they can easily be hidden in a kitchen cupboard which is often under the boiler. This will boost the flow of water on the hot side but leave the cold mains water unpumped. By installing the pump closer to where the mains water enters your property you can then pump both hot and cold water.


If you would like more information on having better flow from your shower then give us a call on 020 89707489.


And don’t forget to check what other people are saying about us on our Which? Trusted Trader Page by going to

Powerflush in Hendon, London


Ive not posted anything for a long time so I hope you’ve not been waiting with baited breath.
Today though is the 2nd week of nice weather we’ve had so I’m turning my mind to helping people who have necessary but not essential works. By essential I mean that your boilers broken down, if this has happened call us ASAP but if you had that horrible catastrophe happen in December I hope you’ve been able to get over the trauma of 5 days or so that it would have taken for the new boiler to be installed. No, today I want to talk about that radiator in the spare room which was cold but you never bothered checking it out because you weren’t using it (or you wanted your guests to leave quickly). Or possibly you noticed that some of your radiators were hot at the top and cold at the bottom. Or that your boiler was making a loud noise.

If that’s the case then you probably need a powerflush. A Powerflush cleans the inside of the heating system. Its really great when we remove the magnets which are part of our kit and show our customers how much dirt we’ve removed from the radiators.

Most property’s take 1 day to do. We remove the heating pump, attach the powerflush machine, pour non acidic chemicals into it together with water and start pumping. We always have the boiler on as the heat really allows the chemicals to scrub hard and get the insides of your radiators really shiny.
Very rarely the aggressive nature of a powerflush can damage the system as it could find a weak spot say a rusty air vent or a seized valve. We would always advise our customers if this may happen.

Case in point. We were asked to repair a heating pipe with a pinhole leak and also quote for a powerflush. It was very obvious to us that if the pipework was already leaking we shouldn’t push our luck even after we’ve repaired it as there could be another pipe hidden in the loft or under the stairs which would pop with the pressure of the powerflushing machine. Instead we advised a chemical flush where we pour the chemicals into the system and then wait for 2 weeks or so to allow the chemicals to circulate after which we drain the system completely and refill it with clean water and more chemicals to prevent the water from getting dirty again.

If your interested in this Give us a call.

3.5 Common Heating Problems

Well winter has finally hit us. It really looked touch ago at the beginning of December but now we’re in the 1st few days of the new 2012 we’re finally feeling the cold bite and can hear the rain falling outside. Its lucky that our heating and hot water systems are working… Isn’t it?

If you are even slightly worried here’s a small list of things you can check yourself to make sure the rest of the winter goes without any hitches.

1. The Pump

No not the shower pump although that is important. Im talking about the heating pump.

Grundfos pump

In most residential houses you’ll have a Grundfos 15-50 or 15-60 pump. They will be red and have a slot in the centre where a large flat head screwdriver can fit. Just like the picture. They’re normally in the hot water cylinder/ airing cupboard and they are meant to pump the heated water in the pipes around towards the radiators/cylinder.

If this fails the boiler will overheat and shut down. If you listen to the pump for just 1 minute you’ll be able to tell if it’s working correctly or not. If there’s a low whooshing sound then water is flowing nicely along and there are no problems. If you can hear aloud whooshing noise then there’s probably some air in the pipes. You’ll need to vent the radiators. If you need tips on that just have a look at the video below where I show you how to vent a radiator…

Most pumps are C Rated pumps and are therefore costing you more than they should. With a small investment you can upgrade to an A Rated pump that will save you money in the medium term (3 years or so). Just call us and we’ll come over and quote.

2. The Tank (AKA The Cold Water Storage Cistern)

Upstairs in your loft you’ll have a black plastic or silver metal tank. This holds the cold water going to the cold taps everywhere in the house (apart from the kitchen tap traditionally) and the Hot Water Cylinder and from there to your hot water taps. Inside there’s a ball valve similar to the one on your toilet. It works on washers and if the washer fails it’ll drip or flow until the tank is nearly full. The vast majority of houses has an overflow pipe to drain the water away but you might not know about it until you have a look. If you find there is a leak then call us and we’ll see if there’s a quick fix we can do.Ball valve with float

3. The Radiators

These are fun. We often get customers calling because a radiator wont heat up. This is sometime because the valves on the side of the radiators have been turned off at the end of the winter 6 months before and not been touched. Now 6 months later they turn them on nothing happens! Normally the fault is a TRV or Thermostatic Radiator Valve. These have a small wax capsule that melts when it’s heated releasing a pin to go up and the water to flow through. This can sometimes be repaired by knocking the pipe VERY GENTLY until the pin pops up by itself. The radiator should start to heat up within a few minutes.

3.5. The Radiators part 2

You’ll also find that sometimes a radiator is cold on the top but hot at the bottom. This is caused by air and you can see how we vent radiators HERE.Venting a Radiator

Lastly you may sometimes find that the radiators are cold at the BOTTOM but hot at the TOP. This will be caused by sludge and you’ll need a powerflush to remove that. Give us a call and we’ll happily come over top help you out.